Here's where it all started. The reason why I love the outdoors more than the indoors. Since way back when I was... oh, maybe four. I grew up in Sacramento, in a suburban neighborhood where I would have been four in the late 1950s, meaning there were still sheep grazing a mile from my suburban home, and hops growing on tall wires, producing 20 feet of growth every summer season, and flowers that went into the making of beer.
We would pile into the car and head out to the ranch for family reunions, or to celebrate holidays. I would get to run wild with my cousins, tearing about on the lawns or swimming in the concrete swimming pool that looked nothing like the pools I took swimming lessons at every early summer. My mother had grown up with that pool, and recognized that learning to swim was essential to the safety of her children.
We would take a break from swimming and climb onto the tractor's trailer bed, then my uncle would pull us through the orchards, full of tall, shady plum, pear and persimmon trees. The taste of a warm plum still brings those memories back to life. By then, I was a skinny eight year old, whose hair always was thick but cropped fairly close each spring, so that the summer heat and the tangles of having thick hair wouldn't get in the way (whose way, mine or my mother's?). We played croquet on the lawn in this photo, or rode Queenie, my cousin's horse.
The ranch was built by my great-aunt and great-uncle, Mary and John Noia, who were both first-generation descendants of immigrants from the Azore Islands.
They developed the fruit orchard plantings, the reservoir where we learned to fish, and even the gold mine, unused since World War II.
They also nurtured my mother and her two older sisters as if they were their own children, never having had any of their own.
My mother could recall the years of prohibition, when my Uncle John had wine at the ranch, for both daily use and for guests. I never knew my Uncle, or his brother, Jess, who married his brother's wife's sister, my grammie Jugie.
Both brothers must have carried the genes for bad hearts. They both passed away leaving widows, who were the matriarchs of my youth, Auntie Mimi and Grandma Jugie, only a year apart. My great-grandparents took care of the ranch during the war years, even though they must have been in their seventies; my great-grandmother, who traveled to the US from the Azores ('around the horn') as an orphaned young teen with her own aunt and uncle, had managed two other ranches of her own before, as a young widow.
By the time I came on the scene, the ranch had passed into the hands of my mother's oldest sister, Marcele, and her husband, Clarence. They had been high school sweethearts, who later went off to state colleges. My uncle had been a football star, and majored in agriculture, while my aunt became an elementary teacher. They were able to complete both high school and college in the Depression decade... though now, I wonder how. The blessing was that there was no war. Yet. They lived in Mexico, where my uncle was an agricultural advisor, and deferred having any children until they returned home in the mid-1940s.
My two cousins were several years older than me, and I looked up to them as idols, goddesses and princesses throughout my childhood. I was especially impressed that they could knit themselves sweaters ('shells", which were really in back when I was 11 and they were in high school) and that one had her own horse. My uncle spoke fluent Spanish, had Mexican workers living on the ranch throughout my childhood (thanks to the bracero program), and made us kids practice our Spanish with him as we went through school. If I had lived in such a way to speak fluently daily, I am sure I would have retained a lot more of that second language!
As I entered my teens, I became a hippie, and can recall several lively discussions about vegetarianism with my uncle, who had converted the ranch to raising cattle as the fruit orchards passed their production prime. He was still working the land, but a second job as a realtor as well, and I saw the empty hillsides fill up with homes and 'ranchettes'. We were lucky to be able to visit the ranch at least annually, and still have this enclave of empty foothill land that produced fruit and beef.
As a young adult, I traveled in the west and discovered that the places that resonated the most with me were the ones that resembled the ranch... huge granite boulders, spreading oaks, rolling grassland. Eventually, I settled in the high country and became a tough mountain woman. The generation of matriarchs passed on and my parents and aunts and uncles aged, but we still gathered together for a summer family reunion at the ranch. By the late 1990s, my cousin had returned to raise her young son there, and to help my uncle take care of my aunt, who had developed Alzheimers. My own parents passed away during that time, then my uncle in 2002, and the group that gathered each year (or two) for a family reunion began to dwindle. One of my two cousins had lived for decades in Southern California, but the other was managing 4H groups with her young son and raising grass-fed beef, sold directly from the ranch. We watched as all the elders above us in the family passed away, one after the other, over the decade between 1995 and 2005.
In this photo, my cousin heads out with a bottle to feed an orphan calf (whose mama hadn't bonded with her), accompanied by niece, nephew and corgi.
We had been getting our meat from the ranch for most of this decade when my cousin told me last year that she no longer was selling beef and put the ranch up for sale.
She was ready to retire from the hard work of ranch life, was happy not to see it through another calving season, and knew that her son, in his last year of college, would be going elsewhere and not into ranching.
Such is life... things don't ever stay the same. The place that my great-uncle started a century ago will pass into other hands, with other dreams, within the month.
I left my house early yesterday morning to head to my cousin's (about an hour and a half's drive) and pick up some family treasures unearthed in the general packing and weeding out. Well, actually, the words "general" and "usual" don't apply to disassembling a farm that's been in the family for 100 years; nobody ever threw anything away, especially if it was something that might be used again, or one of the five "parts" tractors that could provide something for the one running, or related to irrigation or fencing, or family history, etc, etc. My cousin and her son (with sparse help from other family and friends) have managed to work their way through the older house, all the outbuildings, and even the basement of the newer (as in 1914) house, and are packing and moving things to the one-acre place she purchased hurriedly this spring. The ranch sold much faster than she expected, and she is actually paying rent while finishing up the packing and moving.
It turned out that yesterday also marked the last day of the cattle business....
We had my truck loaded and had begun tying down the tarp when the purchasers arrived to pick up the last mamas and babies. My cousin has always raised her cattle with a kind and loving touch, and it was a bit hard on all of us to see the new buyers hurrying then into the trailer in a rougher manner than she uses, but they had never been in a trailer and it actually went pretty smoothly. Just cow mamas and babies and my cuz feeling stressed. The cows headed down the road and will probably recover from their stress quickly; I'm not as sure about my cuz, and will be heading back a few times in the next weeks to help out.
We paused in the shade after the trailer drove away to drink a bottle of water each; the temps already hovering in the high 80s. Cuz described the family that had purchased the ranch as multi-generational, having been raising sheep and expanding into cattle now as well. We collectively sighed, while looking around at the vistas to be seen from the barn, and decided that the good thing was they had a big enough family for the work and at least the ranch wouldn't be turned into condos.
I am thankful for the rich memories, and the deep abiding need to live close to the land that I owe to my family members. As I drove out of the ranch this afternoon, I thought about my 'little grandmother' (as we called my great-grandmother), my Auntie Mimi, my uncle and grandfather gone before I was born, my Aunt Marcele and Uncle Clarence. I left behind the place, the magical land that I have always associated with these special people, but I carried them with me in my heart.